A Personal Essay · Angelo Rigano
Taormina: Sicily’s Underrated Jewel
A personal homecoming — thirty years of returning to a clifftop town that still amazes me
Taormina is a hilltop town on the eastern coast of Sicily and, to my mind, one of the most underrated jewels of the Mediterranean. This is not a guidebook. It is a love letter — to the Greek Theatre, to Castelmola, to slow mornings, and to the pull of an authentic Italian life.
Taormina is a clifftop town on Sicily’s eastern coast, in the province of Messina, overlooking the Ionian Sea with Mount Etna rising in the distance. It captivates because history and daily life still move together here: an ancient Greek Theatre that still hosts summer concerts, medieval streets you can live inside rather than merely visit, and a gentle rhythm — coffee, cornetto, sea air — that quietly insists you slow down. It is, in my experience of thirty years, a place that feels less like a destination and more like a homecoming.
Key takeaways
- Where it is: a clifftop town on Sicily’s eastern (Ionian) coast, in the province of Messina, above the sea and beneath Mount Etna.
- The Greek Theatre was built in the 3rd century BC and later rebuilt by the Romans — still a living venue for the summer Taormina Arte festival.
- Castelmola, the tiny village directly above Taormina, offers even higher, quieter panoramas and the famously eccentric Bar Turrisi (founded 1947).
- Living in Taormina is possible on a modest scale — a simple apartment in the historical centre can feel more connected than any luxury resort.
- Protect your mornings: the town is at its most magical early — sunrise over the theatre, quiet streets, the first espresso and cornetto.
- Off-season is the real Taormina: October to May reveals a quieter, more genuinely Sicilian pace once the summer crowds have gone.
Where my roots meet the sea
A homecoming on the eastern coast
By Angelo Rigano · livinginitaly.life
My family’s story begins in the rugged mountains around Santa Teresa di Riva, a coastal town in the province of Messina, a short and beautiful drive south of Taormina along Sicily’s eastern shore. The ancient stones of nearby Savoca — another Messina hill village — and the terraced slopes where my ancestors lived still call to me.
When I first explored Taormina decades ago, something profound happened. I felt an instant recognition, as though the town were greeting a long-lost son. The same sea that laps the shore below its cliffs once carried the dreams of my family. The same sun that gilds its Greek Theatre ruins warmed the mornings of my great-grandparents.
That connection has become the quiet inspiration behind livinginitaly.life — the belief that Italy is not merely a place we visit, but a place where our souls can finally come home. If you are drawn to that idea, the wider island is worth exploring too: I have written about the best towns in Sicily and, more personally, about the case for retiring in Sicily.
Personally, I have been coming here now for over thirty years, and this place never ceases to amaze me.
Angelo Rigano
Taormina’s gift is its ability to let you disconnect and slowly sink into a lifestyle and atmosphere that quietly sing of the dolce vita. Whether you are wandering the cobbled alleyways in search of the perfect coffee, a family-run trattoria, or simply taking in the views and people-watching, this small village seems to hold something for everyone.
The Greek Theatre
Where ancient stones still sing
No visit to Taormina is complete without standing inside its magnificent ancient theatre. Built in the 3rd century BC during the Hellenistic period, the Greek Theatre of Taormina (Teatro Antico) was later significantly rebuilt and enlarged by the Romans, who added the elaborate stage building that once framed performances against the most spectacular natural backdrop imaginable.
What makes the theatre truly extraordinary is its setting. The seating tiers look directly out over the deep blue Ionian Sea, with Mount Etna rising dramatically beyond. It is not merely a ruin — it is one of the most beautiful performance spaces on earth.
In antiquity, Greek tragedies and comedies echoed across these stones. Today the theatre remains wonderfully alive, hosting major performances during the annual Taormina Arte festival — classical theatre and opera, symphonic concerts, contemporary dance, and popular music. The acoustics are still superb, and there are few experiences more magical than watching a performance here under the stars, with the sea breeze and the silhouette of Etna for company.
The same stones that once heard Sophocles and Euripides now resonate with modern voices, yet the spirit feels unchanged. It is living history in the most beautiful way possible.
I have attended concerts here that moved me to tears — not only for the music, but for the profound sense of continuity. To sit where audiences have sat for more than two thousand years, and to feel that the place is still in use rather than embalmed, is something Taormina does better than almost anywhere.
Above it all
Discovering Castelmola
For those who want to climb even higher — both literally and figuratively — I always recommend the short but rewarding journey up to Castelmola, the tiny village perched on the rocky peak directly above Taormina, and, like Taormina, part of the province of Messina.
You can reach it the traditional way, climbing the ancient stone steps — more than a thousand of them — that wind up from Taormina, or take the easy bus or taxi. Either way, the views grow more spectacular with every step or turn of the road.
Castelmola is a world apart: quieter, more intimate, and blessed with some of the most breathtaking panoramas in all of Sicily. From its central square and castle ruins you look down over Taormina’s red-tiled roofs, the sweeping bay, and out to the smoking summit of Etna. Many say the views from here are finer even than those from Taormina itself, especially at sunset.
The village is a delight to wander — narrow lanes, a small Norman castle, and a handful of excellent little bars and restaurants. The most famous, and delightfully eccentric, is Bar Turrisi, founded in 1947. This quirky establishment is known for its extraordinary collection of phallic-shaped bottles, glasses and objects — a humorous, unapologetic celebration of fertility inspired by the ancient Greek god Priapus. It is not to everyone’s taste, but it is undeniably Sicilian in its bold personality. While you are there, try the local vino alla mandorla, the almond wine: sweet, aromatic, and the perfect way to toast the view.
Whenever Taormina feels a little too busy, I escape up to Castelmola for an afternoon or an evening. It always restores my sense of peace, and reminds me why I fell in love with this corner of Sicily in the first place.
My morning ritual
How mornings are meant to taste
We rent a one-bedroom apartment in the historical centre of town. We rise early and watch the sunrise from our small balcony or a favourite viewpoint. The Greek Theatre below begins to glow in the first light, and the Ionian Sea turns from deep indigo to liquid gold.
We head out and exchange quiet greetings with the street sweepers, still using traditional straw brooms. These small, human moments are the real Sicily. No performance — just presence.
Then we walk to the little café across from the post office for our morning coffee and a warm, flaky cornetto. The first sip of espresso, that buttery pastry, the town slowly coming to life around us — this is how mornings are meant to taste in Sicily.
Sometimes, just sitting back, smelling the sea air and the fresh bread, and watching the world go by is more than enough.
Why it still captivates
What keeps drawing me back after thirty years
Taormina has long been a well-kept secret among the rich and famous. Writers, composers, artists and thinkers have been drawn here for generations — Alexandre Dumas, Johannes Brahms, Gustav Klimt, Richard Wagner, Oscar Wilde, Truman Capote, John Steinbeck, Friedrich Nietzsche and D.H. Lawrence are among the names said to have walked these streets.
Yet what keeps drawing me back is not the glamour or the famous names. It is the way this town invites you to truly live rather than perform. In a world that moves faster every year, Taormina gently insists on a different pace. You begin to notice the small things again: the changing light on the cliffs through the day, the warmth in a shopkeeper’s buongiorno, the simple pleasure of walking everywhere with no particular destination.
This is the Sicily I carry in my heart when I think about our future chapter. It is not about escaping. It is about returning to something essential.
It is the same essence my family knew in the mountains of Santa Teresa di Riva — and it is, in its own way, a language: the unhurried Sicilian rhythm of daily life. If that idea moves you, you may enjoy reading about the island’s language and culture, which shape the welcome you feel here.
Making Taormina your own
Three quiet lessons from living here
If you are contemplating your own time in Taormina — a long stay, a season, or a deeper chapter — these are the small principles that have shaped my own experience of the town.
01
Stay in the historical centre
We always rent a one-bedroom apartment right in the heart of the medieval village. Being able to step out your door and immediately feel part of the town’s rhythm is irreplaceable — and far more affordable than the grand hotels suggest.
02
Eat where the locals eat
Skip the obvious tourist spots near the main square. Wander the side streets and look for small family-run trattorias with handwritten menus. The best meals I have had in Taormina were never the most expensive.
03
Protect your mornings, explore higher
The magic happens early — see the Greek Theatre at sunrise or late afternoon. And when you need a change of pace, take the steps or the bus up to Castelmola for quieter views and that unforgettable almond wine.
The vision
Taormina and the livinginitaly.life story
My wife Sharon and I are building livinginitaly.life not merely as a travel resource, but as a heartfelt companion for those who feel the pull toward a more authentic Italian life — especially in retirement.
Taormina represents everything we believe in: places where history and daily life still dance together gracefully; where you can rent a simple apartment and feel more connected than in any luxury resort; where the past does not feel distant, but feels like an invitation.
If my family’s journey from the mountains of Santa Teresa di Riva to these cliff tops has taught me anything, it is this: the most beautiful chapters of life often begin when we stop rushing and start listening to what the land, the light, and our own hearts have been trying to tell us all along.
An invitation from the heart
Come, and slow down
Taormina has given me more than memories. It has given me a living reminder of who I am, and who I still hope to become in this beautiful country.
Whether you are planning your first trip or, like me, contemplating a deeper chapter in Italy’s embrace, Taormina offers an invitation to slow down, reconnect, and taste the sweet life — one sunrise, one cornetto, one heartfelt conversation with a local at a time.
— Angelo Rigano, for livinginitaly.life
Reading on
If Taormina has stirred something in you, explore the wider island in the Living in Sicily expat guide, browse profiles with the Town Explorer, or let the Find Your Town quiz suggest where in Italy might feel most like home.
Common questions
Taormina — frequently asked questions
Where is Taormina in Sicily?
Taormina is a clifftop town on Sicily’s eastern coast, in the province of Messina, set high above the Ionian Sea with Mount Etna rising in the distance. It sits a short drive north of Santa Teresa di Riva and roughly midway between the cities of Messina and Catania.
Is Taormina good for retirees?
Taormina appeals to retirees who value beauty, a walkable historic centre, a mild climate and an unhurried pace, and who are drawn to a life where history and daily routine still mingle. It is more expensive than most Sicilian towns, and the summer months are busy, so many people who live here treasure the quieter off-season from October to May. Renting a modest apartment in the historical centre is a way to enjoy the lifestyle without a luxury budget.
What is the Greek Theatre of Taormina?
The Greek Theatre of Taormina (Teatro Antico) is an ancient theatre built in the 3rd century BC during the Hellenistic period and later rebuilt and enlarged by the Romans. Its seating tiers look out over the Ionian Sea toward Mount Etna, and it still hosts concerts, opera and theatre each summer during the Taormina Arte festival.
How do you get to Castelmola from Taormina?
Castelmola sits on the peak directly above Taormina. You can walk up the ancient stone steps — more than a thousand of them — or take a local bus or taxi, which is the easier option. The climb rewards you with some of the finest panoramic views in Sicily, over Taormina’s rooftops, the bay and Mount Etna.
When is the best time to visit Taormina?
The off-season, roughly October through May, is when many residents say Taormina reveals its genuine character — quieter, more Italian and no less beautiful. Summer (June to September) is spectacular but crowded, especially along the main pedestrian street, the Corso Umberto. Spring and autumn tend to offer the best balance of warm weather and calm.
Find your own corner of Italy
Taormina is one story among thousands of Italian towns. The tools below help you find the place that might become yours.
Take the town-match quiz
Answer questions about your lifestyle, budget and priorities, and get matched to towns across Sicily and all 20 Italian regions that genuinely fit.
Explore Taormina & Messina
See the full profile for Taormina and the surrounding province — climate, community, cost of living and the data behind a move.
Consider retiring in Sicily
If a slower, sun-warmed chapter appeals, our guide to retiring on the island weighs lifestyle, cost and practicalities.
Written by Angelo Rigano as a personal essay for the livinginitaly.life project — a heartfelt companion for those researching a more authentic life in Italy.
This is a personal reflection, not professional financial or migration advice. Individual research and professional guidance are recommended before relocating.
Living in Sicily expat guide · Find your town · livinginitaly.life